Just last week I went to my first makeup class in Korea. I have gone to classes in Sephora, Mac, Inglot, and Kiko back in Europe, but in Korea it’s my first time! So I had no idea what to expect but I knew it would be very different from the rest.
Cushion, eyeshadow, eyebrow pencil, lipstick, blush
When I arrived to the Aritaum in Gangnam where the class was going to be at (by the way that’s THE Aritaum to visit in Korea) there on the makeup table was a card with my name and a bottle of water. Which I thought very thoughtful, it’s the first time I get a bottle of water in a class that lasts 30 minutes.
When I looked at the box with the class materials I was told right away we won’t use all of that, that the makeup we would do would be very simple and easy, something we can do very fast when in a hurry to leave the house, and something that matches every single person. Which did make me relax a little, how could we use all of this in 30 minutes?
In the end, these were the products chosen for me.
The cushion is the new IOPE Perfect Cover Cushion, the palette and blush are from the new Mamonde Cherry Blossom, the lipstick is the new Mamonde Creamy Tint Squeeze Lip (which I was given number 4 to match my clothes – more on this later) and the eyebrow pencil is one of two universal shades from IOPE (since my eyebrows are dark I got gray).
A easier way to look at the products.
Imagine seeing those products on the table but then also seeing them surrounding you, with beautiful commercials and colors.
The look is daily, velvety, it’s like there is a hint of a cherry blossom (or a hint of spring) on you, but it’s soft and it doesn’t jump out.
They told us to match the colors as such:
So, for the lip I had the Mamonde Creamy Tint in #4 Orange Play which is very VERY bright but I was wearing a bright orange shirt. The lipstick should match your clothes or be a discreet shade of pink.
The blush should match your lip. So, if you have a dark lip color use colors 3 and 2, focusing on the one closer to your lipstick. If you have a bright or lively lip color use 1 and either 3 or 2, whichever matches your lipstick more. In my case, I used 1 and 2.
The eyes is where it gets tricky. There are two sets of “easy makeup” for this look. One is for deep eyes or with a deep eyelid (mine) the other is for not deep eyes – or as the teacher said most Korean eyes. For the deep eyes you should use a base color matching your lipstick color. In my case it’s 1, if you’re wearing pink it would be A. then on the corner a deep color, 2. Then sparkles on top, 3. For the Korean eyes you should use a base matching your lip, 1 or A. a smaller circle closer to the eyelid with a more brown-ish light color, B. then a darker color for the corner, C. Then the sparkles should be a mixture of D and E.
Why are they so different? Because it’s a soft velvet look, so if you have deep eyes you want to make them not be even more prominent. If you don’t have eyes deep enough then the makeup may be too soft (since it is a soft makeup anyway) and may end up be too boring, so you need more colors to give it depth.
The base makeup is easy for anyone. Using a dual cover cushion – a cushion that does the part of concealer and base – first conceal the spots you want to conceal and then with a coverage stronger in the center and fading out you want your skin coverage to have a natural look. So, all the uncomfortable things were hidden but your skin still looks like skin. For example, in my case it shows some freckles and sun marks on my cheekbones, and it does make it look better than full cover in this look.
You should also cover the eyelid a little if you have non-deep eyes, by applying the leftovers of product left in the puff, or if you have deep eyes you want to cover it as if it was a spot to hide. Again, you want to make your face average in everything – not too deep not too superficial, skin not too perfect and not too imperfect.
The eyebrows are not straight like Koreans did up until last year, the trend now is a semi-arched but thick shape. So, basically, a natural eyebrow shape. Just “clean around the eyebrow and fill it in”. You don’t want to use eyebrow mascara for this look because it’s less natural and makes the eyebrows look hard, and you want this look to be like soft spring.
The look (on the left), the base makeup (center) and color makeup (right).
I know it doesn’t look beautiful, but this is a photo from that day and I got home very late (no light) and I was very tired from my classes, but I still wanted you to see the original look.
I will be recreating both of them below.
First the lipstick.
It’s applied in what they call a semi-gradation – which is a full lip with blurred edges. With the lips is where the spring shows in this look. So use this as the point of your makeup.
But again you don’t want to make it too strong, not a full lip, since it is a velvet look. And if you do normal gradation make sure that you’re using a BAM color so that it’ll be seen.
The semi-gradation is in for the season, so they are recommending everyone to do it. You can use any lipstick but they recommend velvet or semi-matte for this look.
And this is the complete look. It looks softer and more wearable than what I usually do (considered foreigner makeup), and everyone complimented me. It’s a look that Koreans really, truly like! It’s a simple look but that has everything. And it has “strong lips” which for them is something very new (like the new red velvet Etude House Matte Lip Tints).
Okay, now off to the double tutorial using other products that you probably have at home.
For the base makeup I used the Laneige Layering Cover Cushion and IOPE double cover cushion, one on each side of my face. My areas that need coverage are eyes, corner of the nose, corner of the lips. Then just dip the cushion once, start from the nose and spread out.
It doesn’t look very natural in the photo because the stupid camera turned the beauty filter on in the last photo, my camera has been going crazy TT but other than that, pretty awesome, yeah?
I started with the easy stuff which are the blush and eyebrows. The blush (and highlighter since I used not-dark lipsticks for this look) are applied in a small triangle under the eyes and going outwards. It has to be small and not on your cheekbones to give your face a fresh, light look. According to the makeup teacher, it lifts your face and gives you the youth of Spring.
Since I don’t have ONE blusher with pink, orange, and highlight I reached out for what I have in the same tones. Two eyeshadows and the Tony Moly rainbow highlighter.
For the eyebrows I used simple khaki gray eyeshadow.
(again I’m so sorry for the derps but I have been so tired! I hope you still enjoy this class)
So, for the lips you want to basically do a full lip under the lip line so don’t overline them. Then with a cotton swab you blur the edges until it touches your lip line ever so slightly.
Pretty simple, works with any lipstick in look really. Best trend in this season in my opinion.
For the pink side I used the Shu Uemura lipstick I own, and for the orange side I used MAC’s Morange.
If you’re doing orange I personally think that, even though it’s matte, the new Etude Matte Chic Lip Lacquer in OR202 Too Much Orange, reviewed by Debby P, would be a great choice.
I described the steps in the picture but there are still some points I want to mention.
In step 2 (only for the pink side) you can notice how much deeper my eye looks, which is why they recommend it for people with non deep eyes and eyelids that aren’t that strong.
Step 3 is important because we’re not using eyeliner here. If you use eyeliner but want to keep the velvet flower look I suggest skipping this step and using a brown eyeliner.
In step 4, the glitter should go on the center of your upper eyelid, and along your aegyo-sal, aka the cute bump under the eyelid. (if you don’t know what I mean do refer to The Saem’s Under Eye Maker Review)
I used The Face Shop’s Mono Pop Eyes 01 Joyful Candy Drop Trolls edition palette, as it has less-springy but still-similar colors to the one I used in the class.
This is the final look.
So what is your choice?
I normally go for pink but as they said to match it to the clothes for a velvet spring I will keep going for the orange one when I wear orange or yellow clothes.