SkinRX Lab MadeCera Return Cream Review:
For those with poor moisture barrier and skin sensitivity issues, ingredients such as ceramide and madecassoside/centella asiatica would surely be familiar faces at this point. Boasting skin repairing and anti-inflammatory properties, these ingredients are almost always the talk of the town when someone complains of dehydrated and/or irritated skin.
Hence, when a couple of my friends were talking about this cream after their trips to Seoul (at the time, SkinRX Lab products were pretty scarce and less accessible online if I’m not mistaken), I definitely became curious and almost cried in gratefulness when one of them decided to gift me a tube of it earlier in the year for my birthday (I may be a bit over-dramatic). So, did this product end up being a savior for my fickle, problematic skin?
“Rapid and safe for damaged skin! Return to the elastic skin!
A cream that becomes a medicine to the skin by strengthening skin barrier!
|What it Does||
Ingredient spotlight: Fermented ceramide
Keeping moisture inside the skin from evaporating and protecting skin from external stimulations
Although some existing cosmetics contain ceramide ingredient, not all cosmetics are produced on the same plane as ingredient and content.
Instead of using a synthetic ceramide which is cheap and absorbed less to the skin, MadeCera products uses a naturally-fermented ceramide with high skin affinity and applied MLV technology to deliver to skin safely and effectively.
(MadeCera Cream 50ml contains ceramide 10,000ppm)
Free of parabens, surfactants and mineral oil, this hydrating cream will soothe your irritated skin and keep it smooth all day long. Subtly fragranced.”
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Betaine, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Cyclopentasiloxane, Diisostearyl Malate, Ceramide 3, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Panthenol, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Lanolin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Fragrance.
Link to Cosdna
Betaine: An amino acid which is also known as trimethylglycine or glycine betaine. Functions primarily as a humectant and anti-irritant. Able to temporarily decrease the depth of wrinkles, giving the face a much smoother appearance.
Niacinamide: Also known as vitamin B3. Helps to boost collagen production and in turn strengthens the skin’s natural lipid barrier. Over time, may also assist in brightening, anti-aging and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil: Contains essential fatty acids such as oleic, palmitic and linoleic acids, and also rich in vitamins A and E which are especially beneficial for dry skin. It helps provide antioxidant benefits due to its phenolic compounds as well.
Ceramide 3: Also known as Ceramide NP. Works as a hydrating agent due to its inherent ability to aid in rebuilding and restoring the skin’s epidermal barrier, as well as strengthening the skin’s appearance and moisture levels.
Madecassoside/Asiaticoside/Madecassic Acid/Asiatic Acid: Derived from the Centella Asiatica plant. Has strong anti-inflammatory effects, and stimulates fibrolasts that create collagen, hence strengthening the skin’s structure. Also contributes to anti-aging as it is an effective antioxidant.
Panthenol: Also known as pro-vitamin B5. Used primarily as a humectant as it has the ability to attract and retain moisture.
Lanolin: Comprised of lanolin oil, which is extracted from sheep’s wool after shearing and before the wool is washed (hence, no harm caused to the sheep!). It has great moisturizing properties as it penetrates deeply into dry skin and also creates a barrier in the underlying layers of skin to prevent moisture loss.
Squalane: Moisturizing, and creates a barrier between the skin and the environment for better moisture retention. May also aid in fighting free radicals in the skin caused by the sun’s UV rays, and also works as an effective anti-aging agent.
Allantoin: A gentle, non-irritating moisturizing ingredient ideal for sensitive skin. Also known as a keratolytic which means it aids in increasing the water content of cells while also helping in the process of desquamation (ie. to stimulate cell proliferation, encouraging new tissue growth) of the outer layers of the skin.
Adenosine: Beneficial in combating wrinkles, especially crow’s feet and frown lines. Also aids in smoothening out the texture of the skin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: A salt derived from licorice. Especially beneficial for sensitive and/or damaged skin as it helps to soothe and reduce redness associated with acne, psoriasis and rosacea. May also provide brightening and antioxidant effects.
Volume: 50ml, 15ml
How to use:
Use AM and PM on cleansed face and neck. Apply pearl size or as needed as your daily moisturizer.
My Skin Type: Sensitive (prone to redness), Combination, Acne-prone, Dehydrated
SkinRX Lab MadeCera Return Cream Review:
Looking at the claims, ingredients and also taking into account my friends’ praises for this little tube of goodness, I admittedly had quite high hopes for this to be close to a miracle product for my sensitive skin. But only time and proper testing would tell, right? So after using this on and off for a few months in both cold/dry (short trip to Seoul earlier in the year) and hot/humid (default setting where I currently reside) weather, I’ll just pull the trigger and note down my honest thoughts.
First off, the SkinRx Cream in the smaller tube (15ml) comes in a magenta-coloured metal tube that instantly reminded me of ointment creams and the A’Pieu Madecassoside Cream. Similarly fashioned as the A’Pieu, it also comes with a plastic twist-off cap and faced the same dreaded creasing issues the more you use it, ie. it becomes harder to squeeze out product unless you attempt to roll the metal tube in the direction of the cap – not without hurting your hands in the process due to the sharp edges of the metal material.
Hence why while I do like tube packaging as it’s more hygienic than tubs, I’d really rather recyclable plastic if given a choice. Another minor thing that I’m not a fan of: the tendency for the cream to pool around the edges of the opening and inside of the cap. All that product wastage… but maybe it’s just expected of such packaging?
Anyway, packaging gripes aside, the actual product is of a white gel-cream consistency which spreads easily over the skin and absorbs well without any whitecast and not much of a tacky/sticky finish. At first, the cream does leave somewhat of a shiny glow, but once fully absorbed, it gives of something akin to a semi-matte to matte finish.
However, if over-applied, it can leave a tacky AND shiny finish. So, please be more conservative with this cream as a little does go a long way. For example, that swatch picture of a slightly larger than pea-sized amount is sufficient for my whole face and a little for my neck.
But, while I enjoy the texture and finish of this cream, I really dislike the scent. With fragrance being the last ingredient, I expected it to have a mild cosmetic scent at most but wow did it reek of cloying sweetness as soon as I spread it onto my face. While it does gradually disappear after awhile, I really… my sensitive nose really hates it.
At worst instances, the moderate sweet scent can even leave me with a slight headache. Even more confusing is how I’ve read other reviews not minding the scent while I’m here just recoiling in disgust. Really goes to show how the YMMV rule even applies to scents now.
In terms of performance, since it does pride itself mostly on its madecassoside and ceramide ingredients (MadeCera is pretty self-explanatory), I did find myself comparing this cream to two different products which feature each ingredient: the previously mentioned A’Pieu Madecassoside Cream and a less glamorous option, the Ceradan Cream. Both of which contains high amounts of madecassoside/centella asiatica and ceramide respectively. So did the MadeCera end up becoming a “best of both worlds” cream?
Well, frankly, no.
Between the three options, in terms of skin soothing and moisturizing benefits, it’d probably be the Ceradan, A’Pieu, and then the SkinRX MadeCera. Now, it doesn’t mean that I dislike the MadeCera – in fact, it’s a pretty good, non-irritating product. But if I had to choose, I would definitely gloss over this as other products seem to be more effective for my skin.
However, I would like to note that the MadeCera works infinitely better as an occlusive than as a sole moisturizer. I’m no cosmetic ingredient expert, and I work quite intuitively with my skincare, but by various tests, I find that the optimum way this works (for my skin, at least) is when I swipe a layer of clarifying toner (like the Cosrx AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner) post -cleanse, followed by a minimum of three layers of a watery, hydrating toner, either a serum or light emulsion, and then a pea-sized amount of the MadeCera while my skin is still damp.
With this, I usually wake up with nicely moisturized skin instead of a dry or dehydrated complexion, which can happen if I solely use the MadeCera post-cleanse. And it works for me in both cold/dry and hot/humid climates – maybe adding in a sleeping mask on particularly dry nights (yes, nights, as I feel that the cream is ideal for PM routines and not the AM… although it does layer fine under makeup).
In conclusion, I’d rate the SkinRX Lab MadeCera (Re-turn) Cream a decent 3.5/5. I was considering rating it even lower purely because of the annoyingly cloying scent, but figured it’d be a pretty petty thing to do, haha. But yes, it might’ve scored a tad higher if it was scentless or had a milder scent instead.
Moreover, if it wasn’t because of the scent, I’d probably have finished the tube by now… but because of it, I ended up always forgetting about it for long periods of time. So there’s definitely some bias there. But again, it’s a good product and works exceptionally well as an occlusive, and is overall worth a try. However, it’s a tad too pricey for me and based on my personal experience, I’m not tempted to ever purchase it for myself.
Where to buy:
Have you tried SkinRX Lab MadeCera Return Cream?
Do share your thoughts in comments.
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